A chef’s tools and vessels laid out on a work surface, seen from above.

Guides

This hub distills everything worth knowing before you eat sushi in Japan, in four parts: etiquette, price, ordering, and the varieties you'll encounter at the counter. Every guide draws on public data from Japanese government agencies, Japanese-language trade manuals, and the published records of the markets and municipalities involved.

27 guides
Essential Reading

Where most readers begin


Group 01

Planning the meal

An empty counter seen end to end.
Guides

How to choose a sushi restaurant in Japan

Two decisions do most of the work: how much you intend to spend, and which format you are actually booking. The rest is reading signals that are already in front of you.

Tokyo · 10 min
A phone answered before opening, beside the reservation book.
Guides

How to book sushi in Japan as a foreign visitor

The booking is where most of the meal is decided — the count, the fish, the start time. How each channel actually works, and what to say once you get through.

Tokyo · 9 min

Group 02

Etiquette & how to eat

A single piece placed on the lacquered serving ledge.
Guides

Sushi etiquette: what actually matters, and what English guides get wrong

There is no test at the door. There is a short list of things that change how the food tastes, a slightly longer list of things that make you easy to serve, and a very long list of rules that exist mainly in English.

Tokyo · 12 min
Two pieces left waiting on the ledge.
Guides

What not to do at a sushi restaurant

The internet has produced a long list of sushi prohibitions and a short supply of reasons. Here is the version with the reasons attached — which turns out to be a much shorter list.

Tokyo · 8 min
A piece of nigiri picked up from the side with two fingers.
Guides

How to eat sushi: the mechanics, piece by piece

Etiquette is the social frame. This is the other half: the hand movements, the angle, the timing, and the reason each of them exists.

Tokyo · 10 min
A counter place setting at the moment of sitting down.
Guides

Omakase etiquette: the conventions that are specific to it

Handing the decisions to someone else changes what politeness consists of. Most of it happens on the phone, the day before.

Tokyo · 8 min
Handwritten wooden menu tags hung in rows on a wall.
Guides

The words you will hear at a sushi counter

Eight words will carry you through an evening. Another thirty are worth understanding and not saying — they belong to the people working, not to the people eating.

Tokyo · 11 min

Group 03

Omakase

The counter case, holding the day’s decisions.
Guides

What omakase actually is

It is not a tasting menu. It is a series of decisions made in front of you, in real time, using seafood selected before you woke up.

Tokyo · 9 min
An empty counter set for the evening, with the reservation book open.
Guides

How long does omakase take?

A short answer with the variables attached — because the difference between an hour and two and a half is mostly decided by things you can find out when you book.

Tokyo · 6 min
Five bands of omakase pricing drawn as an ascending staircase, from okimari sets below ¥8,000 to counters of eight to ten seats above ¥50,000.
Guides

Omakase price tiers: what each band actually buys

The listed price is almost never the price you actually pay. Here is what makes up the difference, and what separates each price band.

Tokyo · 11 min

Group 04

Price

Six ways of eating sushi in Japan plotted on one price axis, from supermarket packs to omakase.
Guides

How much does sushi cost in Japan?

Six formats, six different price logics. Most price guides describe one of them and call it sushi.

Tokyo · 10 min
The share of a whole trip to Japan that one ¥15,000 sushi meal takes up, by country of origin.
Guides

Is sushi expensive in Japan?

The honest answer is two answers, and the official statistics show why the same meal feels completely different depending on your passport.

Tokyo · 8 min
The distribution of sushi meal prices in Tokyo: a tall cluster under ¥3,000, a much smaller second cluster around ¥20,000, and a long tail beyond it.
Guides

The average sushi price in Tokyo

The question has an answer, but it is not a single number. A mean drawn across conveyor belts and counters describes no meal that anyone eats.

Tokyo · 7 min
What each city adds to a quoted course price: roughly 10 to 20 per cent in Tokyo against roughly 28 to 30 per cent in New York.
Guides

Omakase in Tokyo vs New York

Both cities have counters where one person makes twenty pieces in front of ten people. What separates the bills is mostly not the sushi.

Tokyo · 9 min

Group 05

Kinds & comparisons

Seven forms of sushi laid out together.
Guides

Types of sushi: the seven forms

Most English lists of sushi types are lists of toppings. The Japanese categories are structural, and they run in historical order.

Tokyo · 12 min
The tools of Edomae preparation: vinegar, salt, kombu, nikiri.
Guides

What Edomae actually means

The word is on half the sushi signs in Tokyo. It means something specific, and you can check whether a shop means it within about three pieces.

Tokyo · 11 min
The same fish handled two ways, an hour apart.
Guides

Sushi vs sashimi

A short answer, and then the four consequences of it that actually matter when you are sitting down to eat.

Tokyo · 6 min
The same cut of fish, once as sashimi and once as nigiri.
Guides

Nigiri vs sashimi

The comparison people usually mean when they type “sushi vs sashimi”. Here the difference really is a single ingredient, and it changes the fish.

Tokyo · 7 min
A conveyor lane on one side, a chef at the counter on the other.
Guides

Conveyor belt or counter?

Not a hierarchy. Two formats built for different purposes, and a great many people eat both in the same week.

Tokyo · 8 min

Group 06

Places & season

Three measures of “best” — ceiling, density and fit — set against Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto.
Guides

Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto: which city for sushi?

Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto are not three grades of the same thing. They are three answers to different questions, and the one that suits you depends on how many dinners you have and what the rest of the trip is for.

Tokyo · 11 min
Pressed box sushi and hand-formed nigiri in one frame.
Guides

Osaka vs Tokyo sushi

English writing treats Tokyo's style as sushi and everything else as a variant. Osaka got there first, and its answer is still the better one for some fish.

Tokyo · 9 min
An eight-seat counter, empty before service.
Guides

Michelin-starred sushi in Tokyo

A star is a reliable signal about one narrow thing. Most visitors use it as a signal about something else, and are disappointed for reasons that have nothing to do with the food.

Tokyo · 9 min
A single curve of fat content divided into three stages — hashiri, sakari and nagori — with spawning marked after the peak.
Guides

The sushi season calendar

This page exists to hold the year together. It deliberately does not give you a fish for every month, and the reason is the most useful thing on it.

Tokyo · 10 min

Group 07

Facts & regulation

The three numbers Japanese law actually sets for raw fish, and a note that vinegar, salt, soy sauce and wasabi do not kill Anisakis larvae.
Guides

Is sushi safe to eat in Japan?

The question is reasonable and the answer is documented. Almost everything on this page comes from Japanese ministry and agency pages rather than from anybody’s reassurance.

Tokyo · 14 min
An apprentice washing rice in a deep steel bowl, before service.
Guides

How you become a sushi chef

The apprenticeship is a custom, not a rule. Japanese law asks almost nothing of the person making your sushi — and a great deal of the person making your fugu.

Tokyo · 12 min
What UNESCO inscribed in December 2013: washoku and its four characteristics, with no dish, technique or restaurant category named.
Guides

Is sushi a UNESCO World Heritage?

A sentence that appears in a great deal of English-language food writing, and that Japanese government pages contradict on two counts at once.

Tokyo · 9 min
A weight axis showing the published 12 to 22 gram machine range alongside two derived figures of about 29 and 34 grams.
Guides

How much rice is in a piece of sushi?

Three published figures, none of which match. The gaps between them are the most interesting thing about the question.

Tokyo · 9 min
Continue Exploring

Start here

Guides explain the why. These three sections cover the words, the cities, and the counters themselves.

01
Sushi A–Z

Every term you'll hear at the counter, defined in one place.

02
Tokyo

The city's neighbourhoods, and the counters that define each one.

03
Osaka

A different history of pressed sushi, and where to taste it today.

Last updated:

Written & verified by our editors How We Research Updates & Corrections