A chef’s hands at the board a moment before forming a piece.

The craft of the itamae

Becoming an itamae still takes about ten years, and for most of them you are not allowed to touch the fish. Japanese law requires none of that. It licenses a title, which a cook may or may not hold, and one fish, which nobody may touch without an examination. This section is about the gap between the two: what the training actually consists of, station by station, and what the word on the counter means.


The Law

What Japan actually licenses

There is no licence to become a sushi chef in Japan. The training is long, and the trade’s own figure for it is about ten years — but that figure is a convention inside the craft, not a legal requirement. Nothing obliges the person forming your nigiri to hold any qualification at all.

What Japan licenses is a title. The Cook’s Licence Act of 1958 defines a chōrishi as a person licensed by a prefectural governor to use that title while working in cooking, and its eighth article says only that nobody else may use the title, or one confusingly similar to it. It protects the word. It does not reserve the work: no licence is needed to cook, to stand behind a counter, or to open a restaurant.

And one fish. Pufferfish may be handled only by a person a prefectural governor recognises as able to identify the species and remove the toxic parts — and since national criteria were issued in 2019, that recognition has had to be confirmed by examination. The criteria say plainly that practical experience is difficult to assess objectively and is not appropriate as a criterion on its own, which is a striking thing to find in a trade that measures everything else in years served.

So the country that asks nothing of the person slicing your tuna requires a written and practical examination before anyone touches a fugu. Read together, the two rules show where Japanese food law puts its attention: on hazards it can define, and not on craft it cannot. The ten years are left entirely to the trade, which has never needed a statute to enforce them.

Read the full guide — how you become a sushi chef, including the stations, the proverb behind the ten years, and what the arguments against the apprenticeship actually are.

Public Record

Four things the law says

The licence is a title, and it is prefectural
Japan’s Cook’s Licence Act (Act No. 147 of 10 May 1958) defines a chōrishi as a person licensed by a prefectural governor to use that title while working in cooking. The licence is granted by the prefecture, not by the national government.
It protects the word, not the work
Article 8 provides that a person who is not a chōrishi may not use that title or any title confusingly similar to it. Nothing in the Act requires a licence in order to cook, to work at a counter, or to run a restaurant.
Placing a licensed cook is an effort duty
Article 8-2 asks operators of premises that cook and serve food to large numbers of people to endeavour to place a licensed chōrishi at each site. It is a duty of effort, not a condition of trading.
Fugu is the exception, and it is examined
Pufferfish may be handled only by a person a prefectural governor recognises, or by someone under that person’s supervision. National criteria issued on 31 October 2019, last revised 10 March 2025, require the knowledge and technique to be confirmed by examination.

Statute text and certification criteria as published by Japan’s Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare. Every figure we publish is traceable — see sources and how we research.


The Craft

The stations behind the counter

Four stations of training, then four disciplines that never stop. The Japanese terms below are the ones you will actually hear used in a shop; the English is a gloss, not a translation of rank.

Read Next

What the craft consists of

All guides

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